Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

After 40 hours without sleep we finally made it to Kuala Lumpur.  The Cruise Liner kicked us off the ship at 0930 on Sunday and due to the 4 suitcases we had no option but to go to the airport where we sat outside on a concrete seat till 1245 to check in our bags.  Whilst checking in they informed us that the flight was overbooked and asked if we would volunteer to offload ourselves.  This we did as the incentive was a return flight for us both Venice to KL.

The extra 10 hours and rerouting thru Rome seemed like a good idea at the time but proved to be very tiresome by the end of the journey.  Arrived at 1am on Monday and fell into a very comfortable bed in a very plush hotel (The Shangri-La) and didn't wake up till after 9am.

We were both knackered so chose to do nothing but lay by the pool for the day.  Late afternoon we decided to go find some markets.  Got directions and hopped on the monorail, got off at what we were told was the station and walked for miles to find absolutely nothing.  Returned to monorail hot and sweaty and back to hotel where we decided to have dinner.  It was very expensive for a very ordinary buffet.

Slept in again, not waking up till 9 so another late breakfast.  This time we got  a taxi to the Central Markets which are a cultural marketplace.  Only took 1hr to walk around as nothing really exciting.  Hopped into a taxi to get back to the hotel and just down the road from the Central Market I spotted to real markets that I wanted to go to.  Never mind there is always next time.

Spent the afternoon at the pool, Alan disappeared into he Spa for saunas, hottubs, steam room etc stuff - nearly sent a search party out for him.  At 5 we decided to go check out one of the many shopping complexes.  We chose the closest to the hotel the KLCC as we wanted to walk back and find somewhere to eat.  The shopping centre is at the base of the twin towers and a waste our time as it only contained name brand stores like Chanel, Tiffany's, Harrods etc.  Alan being the smart alec that he is described it as the 'shopping centre I chose not to buy anything'./  As if I could afford to even look in the windows.

Walked up and down streets looking for local restaurant that served Satay and Nasi Goreng or Mee Goreng.  Apparently Malaysians eat Italian here but we eventually found a seedy pub place that served the Satay - had to send it back and ask for it to be cooked again as the chicken was a bit raw.  Now praying that it was properly cooked and I don't spend the night and all tomorrow on the toilet.

Long trip tomorrow, we leave at 3.30pm and get into Melbourne at 2am and have to wait there until 6am to get a flight to Canberra.

Doesn't seem like we have been away for 7 weeks.  We have enjoyed every minute of it - except Santorini donkeys!

End of Cruise

Well its come to the end of the cruise.  Its been 24 days of exploring Italy, Greece, Croatia, Turkey and Montenegro not to mention the 4 days in Spain prior to departure.

I was worried that 24 days would be too much on a boat.  Boy was I wrong, with so much to do on shore and only 4 ‘sea’ days we were really grateful for the extra 3half days at sea. We didn’t have time for any on ship activities, except trivia during happy hour, so could easily do a longer trip,

This format has meant we have unpacked once, slept in the same very comfy bed every night, have 3 meals a day without having to go anywhere and wake up every morning in a new town, city or country.

Some of the days have been long with 7 and 8 hour tours but we feel we have packed in as much as we wanted to and still feel very relaxed.

Having 1 day in each port has given us a snapshot of the town or country and we definitely know what areas we do and don’t want to visit again.

The food has been of an incredibly high standard, we have eaten in the dining room rather than the buffet but no matter what venue the variety has been incredible.

The staff are super efficient and friendly, nothing is too much trouble.  All except the Internet Manager who is a complete and utter bitch.  But one thorn is manageable.

Well definitely have the cruising bug.  Now its just a question of which destination is next.

Split, Croatia

Split is the largest Dalmatian city, and second largest in Croatia.  The city is a link to the numerous surrounding Adriatic islands.  It is one of the oldest cities around 1,700 years old.

We tendered into shore and wandered thru the Diocletian’s Palace and the old castle markets.  Being a Saturday the markets were packed with locals and  they spilled over into every alley and square.  The fresh food markets had some fabulous looking fruit and veges but the meat stalls looked a bit iffy – pigeons just land on stuff.  The seafood open-air market was particularly smelly so we didn’t linger for long.  It was pleasant to walk thru local markets and not just the tourist stuff, although there was a lot of that as well.

We wandered up and down alleys for a couple of hours checking out the real old tiny alleyways and the apartments and houses.  They are of the same design as those in Dubrovnik.  We stopped at a café on the waterfront which was a very happening place.  Lots of young people strolling around, masses of young backpackers and a demonstration against toxic waste.  We have really taken to this café society of sitting in the street watching the world go by. Being able to do that with the magnificent views in these old cities is just magical.

Time to go back to the ship as there is a football game on and we have to pack the bags.

Dreading the packing and the long trip home but after 6 weeks its time to find our way home.

Santorini, Greece

In approx 1600BC the volcano that made up this island erupted in a catastrophic explosion and what was once the island of Thira sank to the bottom of the caldera and the sea rushed into the abyss to create the great bay.  The bay, once the high center of the island is 1,300ft deep in some places, so deep that when boats dock in the small port of Athinios they do not drop anchor.  The lagoon like caldera that was created measures 32 sq miles and is 300 to 400 metres deep.  Along the caldera the cliffs rise 1,100ft with the white cluster of the towns of Fira and Oia perched along the top.

We sailed into this lagoon with the bare cliffs and barren landscape with these white specks above and were very disappointed.  This didn’t look anything like the promised white houses with blue domes we were expecting.  We tendered ashore and decided to get the cable car to the top of the cliffs.  No way was I subjecting the poor donkeys to my weight to climb the 1,100ft to the top.  Cable Car was just as bad but kept my eyes closed and made it OK.

Once on top we wandered down the street till we found a car rental agency where we got a little matchbox on wheels with a map which showed nothing and a promise that all signs were in English.  Off we went with the promise we could do the whole island in 2-3 hours.  We headed to the highest point to see the view and a monastery and ended up at the bottom of the hill on the ocean!  Retraced our steps, realized the map was a guide only, as they were not to scale and had no street names on it, and that the signs were in English but they were few and far between.  Eventually got to the monastery and the view after a rather scary drive up this huge mountain on a basically single lane road praying we didn’t meet a bus coming the other way.  The view was good as you could see the whole island below us and well out into the lagoon and islands. 

From here we headed back to a beach town with black sand beaches.  Well the black sand was black stones, pebbles and rocks.  It cost $9 to hire lounge chair under an umbrella but decided we couldn’t sit on the stones and we wanted to get into that fabulous blue water.  The water was cool but lovely. The getting in and out over the hard stones was not so attractive.

We left the beach and traveled to the other end of the island to the town of Oia where we were promised the white house with blue domes clinging to the cliffs.  There were a few and they were very pretty but a lot of the houses are now painted cream and other pastel colours and have been turned into hotels so you couldn’t walk down thru them.  Had a late lunch at a lovely spot overlooking the ocean and the houses on the cliff, took a few photos and then headed back to Fira.

We dropped off the car, after waiting for 40minutes for them to come and collect it and headed back to the cable car.  The line for the cable car was huge, later figured it was about 1.5hrs wait, so in mad fit I said lets walk down the stairs!!!!!  There were something like 1,000 stairs in a zigzag down the mountain, they were 4 of my steps in width, stones and concrete worn very smooth and slippery in places and covered in donkey shit and donkeys.  Alan had to slow down so I could hold on to him due to the slipperiness and the donkeys really freaked me out (definitely a failure as a farmers daughter). They either stood on the steps and I had to pass their rear ends and worried about getting kicked or they wandered up the steps and you had to get out of their way. Half way down I thought I was going to explode from the heat, my knees were ready to give up and really didn’t think I would make it.  We eventually got to the bottom and I must say for the first time this trip Alan was drenched in sweat and just as exhausted as me.  We got back to ship, threw down multiple glasses of water, had a shower and hit the bar.

Once we had recovered we went to dinner, but both of us really couldn’t be bothered so had a light dinner and hit the bed and conked out by 8pm.

Didn’t wake up till 7 this morning and the body is stiff and sore, Alan is headachy as he is dehydrated.  Thankfully today is a sea day as the energy level is 0.

Kusadasi, Turkey

Kusadasi is a resort town on the western coast of Turkey, the Asian side.  It is the closest town to Ephesus, an ancient site.

We were on a half day tour to Ephesus which was once a powerful trading port.  The Ionians built a temple to honor Diana at Ephesus and this became one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, today only the foundations can be seen.

One of the best preserved structures is the Library of Celsus, the 3^rd largest library of that time.  Under the library there is a tunnel which leads to the brothel and municipal baths.  The baths still have the latrines.  This was a men’s only area and it was a large square with a pond in the middle (with nice smelling stuff in it) and surrounded on all sides by marble bench with holes cut out for the toilet seats (approx 40). You sat on the seat and there was a ditch in front which had running water and you scooped the water out to wash your bottom.  Doing your business was a communal outing!  You can still see the pipes used for drainage and the water pipes.  It was very clever and they even had heating for the cooler months.  The story goes that the women would go shopping whilst the men were supposedly in the library but had actually used the underground passage to visit the baths and the brothel.

The Romans were certainly very civilized and advanced when it came to water storage and sewerage.  The massive aquaducts are still visible and inside the baths there were changing rooms, warm water room, hot water room, steam room, cold water room etc and all was done by the way they built the structure. There were two amphitheatres at the site, one small and one larger one which was estimated to hold over 25,000 people.

It is estimated that 80% of Ephesus is still underground and waiting to be discovered.  It is recorded that Cleopatra and Mark Antony visited the city. It is said that when they arrived they poured red wine down the main avenue to the harbour to welcome them.  It is believe that this is where the tradition of laying out the red carpet came from.

The ruins were fascinating and our guide was excellent.  It was very hot around 35 but I didn’t suffer too much today as it was a very dry heat and there was no reflection off white walls.

Back on the bus and off to a carpet factory we went.  Again the carpets were just magnificent and would have loved to buy one but the cost was just a bit too high.  We then wandered thru the streets of Kusadasi (which make up the Bazaar), up and down alleys and market stalls and eventually wound our way back to the ship.

Another lovely day in Turkey.  We are both very impressed with Turkey and have no doubt we will come back here.

Trivia: A new brick 2storey townhouse of 200sq mtrs with 2 bathrooms, pool and overlooking the ocean costs $155,000.   Very tempting…

Mykonos, Greece

Mykonos is an island in the southern Aegean Sea.  It has posh resorts, white sand beaches and radiant blue waters.  Its 33 square miles and has about 10,000 residents.  It dates back to the early 11^th century.

We arrived at lunchtime and were surprised at the barrenness of the island.  It appears to be very rocky and the only trees are those planted around houses.  All the houses are white, made of concrete and again very white.

We went ashore and not only are all the houses white, white coloured trims around doors and windows, but the concrete between the cobblestones is painted white, the tree trunks are painted white – everything is painted white.  The heat and the reflection of all the white concrete was incredible.  We walked up the hill and we were dripping with sweat.

Nearly passing out from the glare and heat we headed back down past the windmills and little Venice where you could see the houses hanging over the water.  We stopped at a café and had gelato and cooled down.  People watched for a while and decided we just couldn’t be bothered walking any move.  Paddled in the water and wished I had brought my swimmers as the colour and clarity of the water was so tempting.

Back on board to cool down and I think we must be the only ones that have come back – we were the only ones at happy hour but regardless we have had enough in 3 hours and were just happy to sit in the shade and people watch.

Istanbul, Turkey

We sailed thru the Dardanelles, passing Gallipoli with a running commentary from the ships tour guide re the ANZACS.  It didn’t look anything like the pictures we had seen.  We later discovered that we went past Anzac Cove around 5.30 in the morning but we weren’t told that would be the time, much to the Australians disgust.  We got the commentary as we went past the town of Gallipoli.  Anyway at least we have been near the place.

A few hours later we sailed into Marmara Sea and Istanbul, it looked huge from the ship and it straddles two continents Europe and Asia.  Europe has the old city and Asia the new and is connected by three bridges over the Bosporus.  Istanbul can be traced back to the 10^th century.  Turkey is 98% Muslim and this is reflected in the number of mosques around the city and has around 15million people.

We arrived at 4pm and quickly left the ship to explore.  Our first stop was the Grand Bazaar (where the bus dropped us) which was closed as it was Sunday.  From there we found our way to the Blue Mosque.  This is a very impressive Mosque with 6 minarets and gets its name from the blue tile decorations inside.  It was prayer time so we were hustled thru but still saw all the tiling to the domes and the magnificent painting in the domes.  /From here we wandered down the street and passed all these little boys aged about 4 all dressed up in white with gold capes and lots of finery.  We asked if it was a special occasion and were told yes it was a very special day and they were off to the Blue Mosque to be circumcised.  The poor little mites looked and behaved as if they were going to a party – didn’t see any of them afterwards but I bet they weren’t happy!

By this time all the Palaces etc were closed so we stopped for an authentic Turkish dinner then wandered down the hill past lots of shops.  We were planning on getting a cab as it was at least 5kms (I reckon at least 10km) to the ship but we just kept walking until it was too late to get cab.  Somehow managed to crawl back onto the ship, had a shower and passed out.

Set the alarm for 6.15 so we could be at the Grand Bazaar by opening time at 0830. The Bazaar is one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world, encompassing 58 streets.

What can you say about the Bazaar except wow, wow, wow, shoppers paradise.  Well it would have been if I left Alan at home.  He is such a spoilsport – every time I wanted something he’d say ‘how are you going to get that home’ ‘its too heavy you will be over your weight allowance’ ‘you will never use it’ ‘Astrid doesn’t need it’ ‘you can’t buy it if you don’t know their size’.  From now on when there is shopping to do I’m taking Jen Jen – she just helps me carry things.  Besides Alan it was fascinating, the leather jackets were divine, the leather handbags incredible (but expensive), the artifacts were beautiful and could have spent all day wandering up and down the alleys and getting totally lost.  But we had other things to see so ventured out after only 2 hours to the Basilica Cistern.

The Cistern was built between 527-565. It length is 140m, width is 70m. You go down 55 stone stairs and there are 336 columns whose height is 9m. It’s all arched between the columns and was made waterproof by covering the floor and walls thickly with Khorasan mortar.  It has the capacity of 100,000 tonnes of water storage.  An absolutely incredible structure. The cracks have been fixed and it now has about ½ metre water in it with fish swimming around in the dark.  Hard to believe that such a massive structure is under so many highrise buildings.

From here we went to Topkapi Palace.  This is were the Sultans lived for 400 or so years.  It’s been turned into a museum with some incredible exhibits.  There is one 89 carat diamond with 46 large diamonds around it.  Liz Taylor eat your heart out! There were swords with emeralds the size of eggs in them.  A timber gold cradle covered with rubies and emeralds and on and on it went.  Cannot imagine how much this collection is worth, but that’s likely why there are many police armed with automatic weapons.  The exhibits are very well done with good lighting and the armory had so many pristine exhibits of Sultans’ ceremonial swords etc.  By the time we got to the library, a beautiful stand alone domed building with massive big day lounges, I was ready to sit and never move.  But move I did past the baths, the harem, ballrooms etc. We spent many hours in the Palace and probably only saw half of it.

Once again a combination of heat and very sore feet saw us find a café for a late lunch, where we shared a doner kebab.  Once revived we trundled off down the hill only this time I was determined to get a cab back to the ship.  Found another couple of stores to spend a few $s in and finally got the cab back to the ship in time for happy hour and sailing time.

Now revived by the drink and a shower and have to get dressed for formal night.  Can barely walk so will be interesting having to wear heels tonight.

It’s interesting how you either connect or don’t connect with different cities.  We would never bother with Athens again but both instantly loved Istanbul and would definitely come back as we barely scratched the surface of all this city has to offer.

Trivia: forgot to put in Athens yesterday that the streets are lined with orange and mulberry trees and you can pick the fruit if and when you want.  It really makes the dullest street very pretty with the trees laden with oranges.

Athens, Greece

Today we docked in Piraeus which is the port for Athens.  Our first reaction to Athens was not too positive as its just masses of concrete apartment blocks, all the same concrete colour and shape and size just spread over a huge area.

We booked on a tour to the Acropolis and Parthenon and other monuments which were built 4 to 5 hundred years BC.  We trooped out at 830 to what we expected to be 25 degrees but it ended up be 34degrees, just what we didn’t want with a hill and 100 steps to climb.  The climb wasn’t too bad, the worst part being the 10,000 other people there!  We had 2 hours with a guided commentary then time on our own to explore and take photos.   The most interesting fact is that the Ottomans had invaded Athens and the top guy had set up house at the Parthenon and stored all the gunpowder there, it was hit by lightning, causing a massive explosion anddestroyed just about everything.  The Parthenon,  the Propylaea, Temple of Athena Niki and the Erechthreion  are now all roped off and you cannot wander through them.  There is a massive restoration program underway as the huge columns are filled with lead which is eroding the marble from the inside.  They are removing the lead and replacing with titanium.  Most of the marble staircase is still intact but extremely slippery. 

At the bottom of the Acropolis on the south slope is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus (concert amphitheatre), originally constructed as a concert venue in 161AD, it’s partly a ruin now but is still used from May to October for the Athens Festival and has had the likes of Pavarotti etc performing there.

The trip down the slippery steps was just as difficult as there are no hand rails but grateful to get back to the airconditioned bus.  From here we drove around Athens stopping at Panathinaiko Stadium where the first modern Olympic games were held in 1896.  The original structure was rebuilt and is now the only major stadium made entirely of white marble.  We then saw the Parliament building and other historical sites.  Unfortunately most of them are covered in graffiti with no attempt to clean them up.

Back on board the ship really hot and tired but revived by happy hour and the sail out of harbour.

Kotor Montenegro

Yesterday dawned bright and sunny and the warmest day yet.  We cruised up the Gulf of Kotor, (took about 1.5hrs) one of the most indented parts of the Adriatic Sea and is sometimes called the southern-most fjord in Europe, although it is actually a submerged river canyon.  With overhanging limestone cliffs of Lovcen and Orjen, the glass like clear clean waters and the old cottages and towns clinging to the steep slopes, the cruise in is absolutely spectacular.  We dropped anchor in the bay and tendered into Kotor.

Kotor is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the old town behind formidable walls and a fortress which was gradually built between the 9^th and 19^th centuries.  The total length of the walls is around 4.5ks and the breadth between 2 and 16 metres and the height varying but reaching 20 metres.  It climbs the mountain up to 260 metres above the town.  I naturally declined to climb up but Alan did 105metre in ½ an hour (return) to Our Lady of the Health church!  He does like his walls and fortresses.  I happily wandered around the old town, up and down alleys and poking my head in and out of little shops etc.

Kotor used to be a major trade route which is hard to believe as it’s a small town tucked away at the end of the bay at the foot of huge mountains.  It has been invaded and ruled by just about everyone over the years and I think was part of Yugoslavia but finally got its independence in 2006.

We only had 3.5 hrs to explore before the ship departed but we managed to see what we wanted and enjoyed the cruise back up the Gulf watching the scenery with a cool happy hour cocktail. 

Another place just begging to spend a couple of days relaxing on and in the water.

Today was a sea day so we just relaxed all day with the only excitement being attending a seminar on what future cruises we might want to book.  Tonight we have a complimentary dinner at the Pinnacle Restaurant which should be good, and tomorrow we have a busy day in Athens.

Trivia: The vacuum toilets on the ship use only 0.4 gallons of water per flush, 75% less than most residential toilets

Venice

Monday morning saw us doing a scenic cruise into Venice.  This was interrupted by a Commonwealth Brunch to celebrate the Queens Jubilee.  Once again the food was far too tempting and we overindulged.  The day was overcast and we were praying the rain would hold off.

We docked at 1pm and immediately left the ship to go exploring.  Unfortunately this was the only port that no information was given to us about how to get anywhere and how far we had to go.  We had purchased a ‘venice card’ and a museum card for the duration of our stay but needed to find the machine or kiosk to print out our card.  We followed everyone else and eventually found a kiosk, which naturally was the wrong sort, but they told us to get the ‘people mover’ and when we got off we would be at the vaporetto (water bus) station.  Well the people mover went about 100m for $1.50 and that was after a 10 minute walk to find it but eventually we got to the vaporetto and got our tickets and figured out where we wanted to go.  There were no signs in English but managed to figure out S Marco meant St Marks Square and we were off and the heavens opened and it pissed down for rest of the day.

The rain didn’t thin the crowds at all but having already purchased our museum tickets meant we skipped the line and walked right into the Doge’s Palace.  The Doge was the highest ranking politician of the day and the Palace was not just his residence but also an official building with ballrooms, courts, prison etc.  It is huge and beautifully preserved and we both strained our neck trying to look up at the magnificently painted ceilings.  We spent quite a few hours wandering around thoroughly enjoying ourselves.  From here we went to St Mark’s Basilica, with only a 5minute wait in the rain.  We were somewhat disappointed in St Mark’s but realized that was because it was a smaller version of St Peters and due to the rain there wasn’t any natural light coming in and it was very poorly lit.  You could barely see any of the ceilings.

We then walked around the Piazza San Marco and checked out the location of other museums and generally made a plan for the next day hoping it would be sunny.  We decided to bypass the people mover and just walk back to the ship from the vaporetto station.  This was a mistake because what looked like an easy walk was interrupted by canals and railway lines.  We eventually found the correct route back but by this time we were very wet and chilled.

What a difference a day makes, Tuesday was bright and sunny with just a gentle breeze.  Once again we set off by 0800, again bypassing the people mover as we had discovered the direct route, although it was a good 20 minute walk.  We caught the vaporetto to Murano Island which is famous for its delicate Venetian glass.  OMG could I have gone mad in these shops, the glass works were masterpieces.  We both fell in love with a shark that looked clear but as you walked around it or shone light on it it exploded with magnificent gold, silver and ocean colours.  When we win lotto we will come back and buy it.  I settled for some handblown one of a kind jewelry which didn’t quite break the bank.

From here we went back to St Marks, enjoying the vaporetto ride down the grand canal, visited the Archeological Museum(which was a whole block long) and wandered around for hours, visiting most the famous sites like the Rialto Bridge and more huge museums.  Again the stores were incredible but very expensive.  Eventually our feet could carry us no further and we headed back to the ship.  The final 20 minute walk from the vaporetto station felt like I was walking on bare bone.  We barely had the energy to shower and change for dinner.

We both think that Venice is a city you need to stay in.  To be in a hotel on the grand canal where you can go rest your feet during the day, to dine in the fabulous outdoor restaurants and to generally soak up the atmosphere of the place. No doubt we will be back at some stage to finish seeing all the things we missed this time. Being on the ship and so far away from everything meant we missed the atmosphere and once we returned to the ship we couldn’t be bothered going out again as it took so long.  It was a 20 minute walk followed by a 40minute vaporetto wait/ride to get where we wanted to go so that really put a dampner on it.

Trivia: There are less than 10 licensed plumbers in Venice

Dubrovnik, Croatia

Today we arrived in Dubrovnik, Croatia.  I have been looking forward to Croatia as I have been told it is a beautiful country and I was not disappointed as we sailed into harbour.  It has a beautiful harbour with the mountains seeming to just rise out of the water and the houses (which all look new) scattered up the mountain.

We disembarked and hopped on the bus to the old city.  Wow, the old city is surrounded by a 20ft thick wall and the height is 80ft and the length 6,350ft (or about 2.5kms).The wall is in perfect condition having been continuously repaired since the 12^th century.

The old city is still lived in today.  Our guide Lydia was born and raised there are only moved out when she married.  The city is set out in a grid pattern so easy to get around except for the steps – these people are part mountain goat.  When the city was built, it was built with running water to the houses and sewerage.  The bottom floor is a shop or business, on the second floor there are 2 bedrooms, 3^rd floor is living space and kitchen and under the roofline there is a little attic window which is the toilet.  It was always built in the roof as the highest point so that the smell would blow away in the wind.  During the war the majority of the town was bombed but it has all been restored to its original condition.

We toured thru the Dominician Monastery, Town Hall, the Rector’s Palace and just wandered up and down the streets.  Alan wanted to walk the wall but we ran out of time.

From here we traveled to a small seaside town of Cavtat, where we walked along the beautiful seafront promenade.  This small town is becoming on of the places the rich and famous bring their yachts and apparently Brangelina and tribe holidayed there last year.

Next we went up the mountains to the Konavle region where we went to a Glavic House (local farm house) where we were greeted with brandy (blow your head off home made stuff) dried figs and then trooped into the olive oil making room where we ate home made ham, cheese, chicken and potatoes with more wine (truly coudn’t drink it but Alan did).  It was very interesting being in a home and farm that has been occupied by the same family for over 600 years.  It is now heritage listed but the old grinding stones are still used to make the oil.

It was a beautiful day with not a cloud in the sky, the scenery was stunning and our guide was delightful as a result we thoroughly enjoyed Dubrovnik and would happily return and spend more time here.

Todays trivia:  we are the worst trivia players on the ship – we could take out the booby prize every day

Katakolon & Corfu Greece

Katakolon Greece

Today we woke up to another little village and port called Katakolon.  Its on the same island as Navplion (opposite side and end) and it’s the port for Olympia.

Olympia is the birthplace of the Olympics.  It was not a village but a holy place where only priests were allowed to live.  Interestingly only virgin women were allowed to compete in the games and if married women watched the games and were caught they were executed.  That’s the history lesson for today…

We wandered up and down the 2 streets of Katakolon and checked out every tourist shop and jeweler but none of them tempted me to open my purse.  We then wandered down the waterfront and stopped in another very comfy café where Alan had a beer.

Wandered the 10 metres back to the ship and spent a lazy afternoon reading – well I did, Alan went to the gym etc but I couldn’t get enthused!

Corfu

Today we woke up in Corfu which is an island on the north west coast of Greece.  We left the ship just after 8 and caught the shuttle bus to the terminal – it was a whole 100metres!!! then got a taxi into town. 

First stop was the Byzantine built Old Fortress which was the original settlement and only accessible across Contafossa moat via a moveable wooden bridge.  Alan climbed to the very top of the mountain, I stopped ¾ of the way up and admired the view of very expensive yachts in the harbour below.  There were a couple of not so expensive yachts whose inhabitants were doing their daily bath on the back ladder – stark naked!   Anyway once again the fort is in desperate need of maintenance and restoration but at least this one we could walk thru including the old prison which would have been a pretty horrific place to be incarcerated.

From the fort we walked thru a part to the Palace of St Michael & St George which is now an art gallery.  From here we wandered down the Platia Spianada and then up and down the narrow alleys paved with blocks of stately kantounia stone where tourist shops abounded and mixed in between these were handbag shops galore (could have been a handbag slut again but Alan had the money so was just allowed to look) and some fabulous little boutiques and restaurants.  Wandered up and down and all around for about 3 hours and stopped in another café for an iced coffee (which turned out to be black coffee with a scoop of icecream in it) and a tasty little bit of pastry.

Once revived we decided we would walk the 2.5kms back to the ship along the waterfront rather than pay the $15 taxi fare again.  It was a very pleasant stroll but a bit weary after all the walking already done.   Back on boat and Alan has discovered the AFL is on the TV, so that’s him done for for the next couple of hours.

Decided I really like the cruise format as its great to wake up each morning in a different town, city or country without having to pack and unpack bags. The most difficult decision on board is what restaurant you want to go to for dinner. Also you can choose how much or little you want to do in each port.  After 5 hours of walking today we were both more than happy to come back to the ship and just veg for the arvo.

Some bits of trivia about the cruise:

• It is 300 steps and 4 floors from our cabin to the coffee
• There are 2000 passengers on board and 850 of them are Australian
• There are 170 South Australians on a tour being led by Malcolm Blight, who I’m told is an ex North Melbourne AFL player and coach – thrilling huh?
• The food is exceptionally good, we prefer the dining room as the portion control is good and the buffet always tempts you to go back for more bad food.
• Every port we have visited has a number of very black Africans wandering around selling knock off watches.  They seem to be very well organized, they all carry the same type of suitcase that opens to display the watches.  Don’t know how they make a living as we haven’t seen anyone buying anything.

Navplion Greece

Navplion Greece

(pronounced naf plee o)

Yesterday was a sea day in which we basically did nothing. Had a formal dinner and ate far too much as the main course was half a large lobster, steak and veges. The choice and quality of food is exceptional and we are struggling to limit our intake.

Today was a sleep in day (which Alan obviously forgot about) so once again I was awake before I wanted to be.  We dropped anchor in the outer harbour of Navplion (a large Greek Island) and at 9am we boarded the tender to go ashore.  We had not booked a tour here as we just wanted to wander around the old town ourselves.

The main claim to fame for Navplion is the Palamidi Fortress which is perched atop a 700 foot crag and takes an almost vertical 899 steps staircase to reach.  Needless to say I passed on that one! Instead we wandered the town and up the lower slopes to another fortress which is falling apart at a rapid rate.  The sign says its being restored from 2007 – 2013 but unfortunately it looks like the Greeks have run out of money and nothing has been done for a number of years.  Its reaching the dangerous stage with a few signs placed knocked over in the long grass saying ‘danger’.  Nevertheless we walked thru some tunnels and up and down very steep steps and eventually wound our way back to the centre of town to the Museum which is full of Mycanae artifacts.  Interesting stuff dating back to 1500BC up to 1000AD recovered from tombs.

The ocean is that incredible blue that you seen in photos and so clear you can see the fish even at great depths.  Very tempting to just jump in when you are sweating from all the uphill climbs but really air temp only 25 degrees so not hot enough for swimming.

Don’t know how the oldies manage the really steep steps getting to and from the houses – must just be a lifetime of traversing them so that even on walking sticks they don’t seem to get out of breath (even though I was huffing and puffing like an old steam train).  Stopped in the main square for a cool drink under the shade of magnificent old trees and more than adequate umbrellas on comfortable cane lounges and watched the

Greek way of life go past us.

Back to the ship in the arvo where we managed to get a couple of recliner lounge chairs in the crows nest where we could continue to watch the world out of picture windows, read a book, snooze and drink cocktails.  Altogether a pleasant day and the first I have felt relaxed in.

Been 1 week on the cruise now and starting to settle after being sick and worried sick about Triona and then Mum being admitted to hospital with a blood clot on the lung.  Fortunately all home from hospital and doing OK so now trying to relax a little.

An early dinner tonight compliments of Holland America (for being good folks) at the Asian Fusion restaurant. Off to Katakolon (Greece) tomorrow.

Back from dinner with a very extended tummy.  The food was incredible! certainly worth the extra $15 they usually charge (ours was free) now going for walk around the deck as I am over full.

Sicily - Mt Etna

Mt Etna

Today we docked in Sicily, a smallish island just off the coast of Italy which was an independent nation 150 yrs ago.  We boarded the bus for a 2 hr drive to Mt Etna.

Our guide is a trained naturalist and volcanoist and a very proud Sicilian.  His enthusiasm was boundless and for the 2 hr drive he did not draw breath!   Nevertheless he was very informative and entertaining.

In a short distance we traveled thru many different landscapes with micro climates, different flora including some very confusing ones with lemon trees growing next to a banana tree and a chestnut tree and grapevines – this caused Mauritizo to go into exteme handwaving and spluttering excitement.  Nevertheless the steep climb with the villages clinging to the cliffs and up and down the valleys with the ever changing landscape was beautiful.  The bus drivers do a fabulous job navigating the hairpin turns and the very narrow streets.  I’m sure the residents of the villages know not to open their front doors when a bus passes otherwise they would be knocked over.

We glimpsed the northside snowcapped Mt Etna through the clouds a couple of times and eventually got through the clouds on the southside to see it in all its glory.  The temperature had dropped to 10degrees and even though we had our light coats we stepped off the bus and froze.  We had a ½ hr toilet/coffee stop and it was pretty spectacular, just what you imagine a lunar landscape to be only black. The restaurant/lodge that we stopped at was destroyed in the 1992 eruption and also in one back in the 1800s.  It is strange to see this stark landscape with chairlifts but apparently it’s a major skiing resort in the winter.   All back on board and traveled 100mtrs down the road to go look at a crater and by that time the weather had closed in.

We walked to the fault line of the 1992 eruption and the several craters from then.  You couldn’t see your hand infront of your face so it appeared very mystical – just black lava and swirling mist.  Took a few snaps, listened to Mauritizo wax enthusiastic about the different rocks etc and beat a hasty retreat back to the warm bus.

Mauritizo seemed to have talked himself out on the trip home so we have a peaceful 2 hrs dozing and admiring the beautiful scenery.

Back on the boat and decided we really didn’t want to walk to town of Messina as I’m  quite weary from the hectic days, the runs and now a runny nose, so a relaxing afternoon in the library/crows nest bar seemed a good idea.

As usual the internet is not working.

Naples, Sorrento and Pompeii

Naples, Sorrento and Pompeii

Another busy day with another early departure.  We drove through Naples and the many towns (which appeared to be just one big town) with some ordinary scenery until we came through a tunnel and there were the mountains, cliffs and incredible coastline of Sorrento.  Its one of those picturesque towns that appear to be velcroed to the cliff walls over the ocean and really pretty.  We stopped in the town square and had 1 hr to wander around on our own.  We immediately set out down the alleyways towards to sea.  This is the type of town we really enjoy.  Got to the spot where you could look down to the beach (40 metres below) and couldn’t see how to get down there.  It was the postcard scene of a little cove surrounded by black sand, deck chairs and bathing huts.  Very cute but you would be exhausted and sweaty after climbing all the way back up.

Wandered back to meeting point, checking out the little shops etc and went to a very early lunch.  1^st course was spinach & fetta cannelloni, followed by veal and potatoes and then the most divine little sponge cakes sandwiched together with lemon custard and absolutely dripping in a lemon cream.  Couldn’t believe something so rich could be so light and delicious and I (and everyone else) licked the lot up.

Back on the bus to Pompeii and the heavens opened and remained open for the rest of the day.  Pompeii was fascinating.  To think that a civilization that long ago had sewerage, water drains etc and to be able to see them even now is incredible.  The road system is something to behold and the house we saw was huge and beautifully decorated.  The entrance to a house was an Atrium which allowed the rain to come into what looked like a large pond, this fed into the underground water tank which serviced the house. Unfortunately due to the pouring rain we were all pretty miserable and only got to see a couple of things before calling it quits, plus our guide was just a little cranky hurrying us all the time.  One lady asked for the toilet and was told with the wagging finger and cranky voice ‘no pee pee’.  I exercised great bladder control for the day.  You really need a full day to explore and read the map to understand where you are and what you are seeing.  We couldn’t get the maps and instructions out due to the rain, although we did go into a bordello which still had some very graphic fresco’s .  Frescos were used as a ‘menu’ in all shops and markets and questionable places of business. Despite the weather we enjoyed today’s excursion although my nose is now running.

Rome

Roma

Early departure at 7.20 for the trip to Rome.  Being Sunday morning the roads were empty and we arrived at the Trevi Fountain by 9.  The amasing thing for me was that the fountain was attached to a building – I always thought it was a massive fountain in the middle of a square!  From here we had 2 hours to explore on our own, so armed with a map off we went.

Found our way to the Pantheon, which could have done with a good clean, then to Piazza Navone, which is a church.  From here we were headed to Mausoleo Augusto but mmm, Alan couldn’t read the map, Alan got cranky, Alan threw a tanty and life was miserable. Apparently only women can read maps upsidedown! Di read the map, found where we were and off we went to Campo de Fiori, Palazzo Farnese which was the farmers market and some great food and wanted to get truffles etc for Anto but someone was still in a shit so didn’t stop.  Next stop was Palazzo Spada then Campidoglio and then Monumento a Vittorio Emanuelle II.

Unfortunately we had absolutely no idea what we were looking at or the significance of the places but our time was up and we had to find our way back the Trevi fountain.

Once we met up with our group we had to walk to the bus which was a good 30 minutes.  We went past some of the places we had already seen and our ‘guide’ explained that she was an ‘escort’ and as she hadn’t passed her ‘guide’ exam she couldn’t tell us what we were going past. Very frustrating!!.

Back on the bus and off to the lunch, where again we drove past some of the highlights and once on the bus our guide decided she would tell us what we were seeing but her English was so poor we couldn’t understand her anyway.  I think I heard her say one of the roman ruins was where Julius Caesar died.

After a lunch of tuna salad (yuck, yuck, yuck, I would rather starve than eat cat food) and the weirdest lasagna, followed by tiramisu (which was frozen so enjoyed that) we picked up a proper guide and went to the Vatican.

Yesterday being Pentacost Sunday meant that the Pope did a mass in St Peter Square (which is why we couldn’t go until the afternoon).  By the time we got there the line was a couple of times around the square but after 75mins in the sun we made it in.  We all had radio headsets so we could hear the guide so we didn’t miss out on anything. Saw the Popes apartment from the Square then ventured into The Basilica.  Wow, what can you say, it is magnificent and well worth the wait.  The Sistine Chapel was closed as were other parts of the Basilica but there was more than enough to see.  The artwork is incredible and to find that there are no paintings – what look like paintings are mosaics! Tiny naturally coloured stones all perfectly placed to make these masterpieces.  Really mindblowing.  I was expecting to see a Michael Angelo painting but found out he designed the building but never painted it.  We didn’t have time to go to the Museum but if we are ever back in Roma we will plan on spending more time here.

From here we were off to the Colosseum, which once again required a long hike from the bus and some very steep steps inside. We were very short of time so had to do a quick look around but again with excellent commentary from our guide and even though it is falling down you could see how it worked in its time.  Fascinating building when you think it was originally covered in marble and had sail shades over the roof to provide shade!

Utterly exhausted by this time and happy to get back on the bus.  We were disappointed in the way the ruins were presented ie the ruins where Caesar supposedly died were surrounded by a knee high concrete wall with glass panels on top.  The glass panels were completely covered in graffiti so you couldn’t see through them and the only sign said ‘do not feed the cats’ – not very helpful at all.  There were numerous examples of ruins being built over by different generations but no signage so we have no idea what they were about.

Rome in a day really isn’t possible but at least we got a snapshot of what was available.

Cruise days 1 - 3

Input by Alan

Boarded the cruise Thursday but because we still had gastric we contacted the medical centre to get some medication and were placed into isolation in our cabin. We couldn’t leave until we had a full 24 hours without problems. We had to have everything delivered to our cabin and it had to be thoroughly cleaned twice a day by staff wearing protective clothing. Very boring!!! I was due to be cleared at 7:00am this morning (Saturday) as we arrived in Livorno, but Di wouldn’t be released until 2:30pm, which meant that she would certainly miss our pre-booked excursion to Florence and Pisa. I wanted to go and spent an hour chasing medical staff on the phone to get cleared to leave the ship. When I finally got the OK about 4 minutes before the bus was due to board I raced down and tried to leave the ship, but the computer system hadn’t been updated with my medical clearance. Two other couples also had the same problem and after 20 minutes of racing around to get someone to update the system all 5 had missed our bus. We have been told that we will get a refund because it was a medical issue that caused the missed tour, but we really wanted to see both these popular cities and attractions.

I finally got to the gym while Di was still confined and then I watched the Collingwood/Adelaide Crows AFL match live on the satellite TV to pass the time while Di dozed.  When Di was cleared, a real relief after being cooped up in a cabin for nearly 2 days, we went into Livorno on the shuttle bus for a quick look around and to get some fresh air. Not much going on in town as it was Saturday and most of the shops were closed until late afternoon. Back to the ship for a couple of cocktails at happy hour and a very light dinner as our tummies are still quite tender. We have just left port on our way to Rome.

Arrive in Civitavecchia (the port for Rome) in the morning and will be out touring for over 10 hours before the ship leaves Sunday night. Will report on Rome next blog update.

Barcelona

Day 1

Arrived around 3ish and booked in the Arc La Rambla.  We were pleasantly surprised as the reviews of this hotel were pretty awful and we had steeled ourselves to being uncomfortable for 4 days.  Instead we scored a room at the back of the hotel away from the noise (or so we thought) and the room had been recently refurbished.  We certainly miss the tea and coffee making facilities and there is no mini fridge.  The bed is just this side of concrete but can survive.

Went strolling up the street and in and out of alleyways totally enchanted with the 500 yr old buildings.  Very easy to get lost and you wander up an alleyway which ends in a square so you have to backtrack  but great fun as long as Alan is navigating.  Stopped for dinner in the tourist strip (yep knew it wasn’t going to be best quality or cheap) but we experienced Tapas, Paella and Pizza.  Anto could give them a lesson on how to do it without dripping in oil! 

Unfortunately on the way back Egypt Belly hit in a big way and I had to do a 100mtr dash.  Spent the next 12 hours attached to the toilet and feeling very sorry for myself.  It hit Alan in the morning so we were doing the tag team thing.  

La Rambla

Artist in La Rambla

 Day 2

Medication finally kicked in and we got enough energy up to take the washing to a Laundromat.  Paid to have it done as sitting there was not an option today.  We weighed the washing at just over 8kgs but apparently the girl behind the counter lifting the bag off the counter was far\ more accurate than our scales and we had to pay for 16kg.

Decided to walk around the Port area and then through the streets for as long as we could.

Stopping at the Christopher Columbus statue, the Post Office, and the old Fort and defending walls.  We had a look in the Barcelona Cathedral which is unbelievable . I think there is a shrine to every saint – it is absolutely huge and gaudy as only we Catholics can do.

Christopher Columbus Monument

Old Fort over Roman ruins

Cathedral

Went thru the fresh food market.  This is incredible – I have never seen so much produce presented in such a pleasant way before.  If its like this in Paris I have no doubt Anto will spend an entire day there.  Produce is expensive, I brought 2 oranges that cost over $2.50 each (had one for breakfast and it was very ordinary)

Market

Finished off the 3 hr walk with a coffee from Starbucks and headed back to the hotel where I collapsed in a shivering mess for the afternoon.  Couldn’t get warm so crawled into bed.  The empty tummy has driven me out, I want soup but doubt I will be able to find any.

Didn’t find soup but ordered a light veal dish, unfortunately a couple of mouthfuls was all I could manage.  Had a very early night in a bed becoming more uncomfortable by the minute.

Day 3

Woke up feeing much better so we wandered the street and found a café for coffee and croissant then walked to the hop on, hop off bus stop.  Just got to the bus stop when the coffee and croissant decided they didn’t like me so did the quick dash home again.  Eventually got to the bus and decided it was best to just sit and sightsee without getting off.  It was a 2 hour trip around the south western part of the city showing all the sites through the old city and the newer parts built for the 92 Olympics.  Had a break at lunch time, chatted to my girls who had some sad news, then opted for some fresh air so caught the bus that toured  the waterfront and showed the Olympic village.  This was interesting as before the Olympics it was an industrial/slum area which was demolished to build the port for the sailing and the accommodation for athletes.  Previous to this Barcelonians believed status came with living the furtherest from the ocean.  Like everywhere else in the world that has now changed and the waterfront land and apartments are the most expensive.

We decided to exit the bus and walk back the 2-3kms to the hotel as the sun had come out and my tummy was behaving itself.  Everywhere you go the place is crowded with tourists and the natives themselves all out enjoying the sunshine.  Barcelona is proving to be a very vibrant and pleasant city to visit.

After a rest and updating blog we wandered out for dinner.  We wandered the side alleys looking for something not touristy and found a lovely restaurant called 'Sinatra' which was mediterranean fusion.  Having not eaten for a while I was a bit dubious about ordering a full meal so just ordered an entree of raviolli and a rocket and ham salad.  The raviolli was devine and the salad turned out to be avocado, mango, mozarella di bulafa , walnjuts with Pedro Ximenez wine vinaigrette and was just divine - polished the whole lot off.  Alan ordered charcoal angus beef with cognac three peppers sauce served with potatoes au gratin and grilled asparagus.  Our waiter did not like our choice of wine and brought us a taster and a bottle of what he considered a more suitable wine.  We liked our choice but of course agreed whole heartedly with the waiter. After our depressing news of finding out today that our youngest daughter has been diagnosed with cancer (treatable with chemo and a good prognosis) and the worring day that followed, the whole meal really hit the spot and we finished with a vienna coffee.  Nice for Alan to have a few drinks and not have to drive home.  Had a brief walk after dinner but it started to rain so headed back to the hotel.  Have discovered the armchair converts to a single bed so when my back goes into spasms tonight I will trying moving to the foam cushions.

Unfortunately the lovely dinner didn't last long in my body and only got a couple of hours sleep.

Day 3

The sun is shining and after an update from the girls we ventured out  once again to explore the north east of the city.  Our first stop was the Sagrada Familia.  This is the cathedral started by Gaudi.  It is the most incredible structure I have ever seen.  I was absolutely awestruck at the genius of the man and the engineering feat in building it.  Even though it was started in the 1800's they estimate it will take another 30 years to finish.  This should be another 'wonder of the world' and personally thought it more impressive than the Pyramids. Followed this with a visit to Park Guell which is a complex that Gaudi built of park like english gardens in a housing complex.  Of course the houses were not standard and the entire complex is now run by the State.

These visits were definitely the highlight of the day but continued with the sightseeing from the bus as I was very weary after traipsing around in the heat when not feeling well.

 

Sagrada Familia

Sagrada Familia

Park Guell

We realised today that we have not seen one house! everyone lives in apartments! very unusual but originally rich people built a 3 or 4 story house with shops at ground level, they lived on the first floor and the other floors were built as apartments, and thats the way they remain.  Astounding!

 

Gaudi Apartment Bld

Interesting Apartments

Bull ring in the backround

Hotel Vela

Tonight we braved the metro - and as anticipated it was easy and well run - to go to a flamenco Tapas and Show.  The Tapas was too much for me with processed meat and cheese, potatoes, mushrooms and calimari, so only managed to nibble a bit but Alan ate his fill.  We had front row seats and literally had our hands on the stage.  Every spaniard in the world will hate me for this but I couldn't distinguish the singing from the Moslem call to Prayer and the dancing was glorified tap dancing.  In fairness to the performers they were very dedicated, fit and really threw themselves into their art - I just didn't get it.  I was expecting fantastic costumes but found the lead male, who thought he was gods gift to the contiki tour girls at the next table, costume of red boots, black trousers, purple shirt and shiny grey jacket just a little offputting.  The girls costumes were quite drab.  Obviously the whole experience was not for me.

All in all Barcelona has been a fantastic city and we thoroughly enjoyed our time here. We board the ship tomorrow for our 24 day Mediterranean cruise.